FOUREYES ON ROME

There's plenty of old stuff in Rome obviously and you should probably try to see a lot of it if you haven't been before. But one of our favourites is the Map Gallery at the Vatican. Maps are cool as is but old maps are even cooler, especially when they are painted by Renaissance artists along the entire length of a huge gallery and embelished with gold details and intricately carved ceilings (more on that coming up later). While you are there, break away from the stream of tourists on their way to the Sistine Chapel, to admire the Vatican's largely ignored modern art collection.

Coffee is seriously good all over Italy but two places we love are Sant Eustachio and Tazza d'Oro. Both just around the corner from the Pantheon, in opposite directions, so grab an espresso at either after sightseeing.

It's ridiculously easy to find good food in Rome as long as you avoid the tourist traps which are easily spotted. One of our best meals in Rome was at the cute little Ristorante Broccoletti in Monti. Relatively inexpensive, one of the highlights was the Orecchietti Pugliese with peppers and salted almonds. Rome is also the home of Carbonara which is a must-eat while there. The pastas are great obviously, but don't miss out on the awesome contorni dishes as well.

Rome is a city that really rewards aimless wandering. We love to spend afternoons meandering from one area to another, stopping for coffee, food or vino along the way. Around every corner there's a historical monument, market, exciting shop or Bernini sculpture. It's a pretty inspiring environment.